Maintain your mechanical watch according to the rules of the art
The movement of a mechanical watch is a very sensitive organ and therefore, your watch needs a regular cleaning. Indeed, in addition to the questions hygiene et of aesthetics, impurities can lodge deep in the watch and make their way to your mechanism and disrupt or even damage the latter.
To refresh your watch and make it last over time, a large bath is recommended. Of course, the big bath is only reserved for waterproof watches, the others will be cleaned with little or no water.
If there is still doubt about the water resistance of your watch, inquire directly, so as not to damage it during this process. cleaning but also during daily use. For old watches that have not had any watchmaking service, assume that they are not waterproof.
Our advice for properly cleaning your watch
You will have understood, depending on the waterproofness of your watch different techniques apply, regardless of the on-board mechanism. The tools remain essentially the same.
Equip yourself with a brush with soft and flexible bristles. Yes… your old toothbrush will do the job just fine. You will need a chiffon sec, a wooden toothpick, a container with the clear water or slightly soapy. The most important thing for the end, take your bracelet remover. With the exception of the latter, under no circumstances use metal objects during this maintenance.
Cleaning consists of remove residue present on your watch so that they do not penetrate inside it but also for reasons of hygiene and aesthetics. Here is our tips for cleaning your watch like a pro:
First stage : Remove your bracelet. If it is leather you can moisturize it and give it a little care with a cloth. For your metal bracelet, place it in theHot water preferably.
Second step : First, gently use the toothpick remove any dirt from the crown, then that of the case. Dry brush to remove any residue. In a second time, if your watch is waterproof, moisten (dip and lightly wipe) your brush and repeat the process. The more waterproof your watch is, the wetter the brush can be. Caution, under no circumstances rub at the crown level with a wet brush, water could lodge there and enter your watch. Instead, brush your watch on the case, the lugs, between the lugs, etc.
Third step : Dry your watch and leave no trace of water. If your watch is particularly waterproof (10-20 ATM) you can rinse it under a stream of water.
Take your steel bracelet out of its bath and also brush it to remove impurities.
Fourth step : Replace your bracelet (loop at 12 p.m.) and you're gone again for quite a while.
Don't try anything dangerous, if you are not confident do everything with a dry brush and a cloth. Do not attempt to disassemble your watch, except the bracelet, leave everything as is. Remember thatthere are professionals !
At the professional workshop
As you can imagine, a professional cleaning will be much more complete and pushed than an amateur interview. Indeed the watchmaker will have more tools and instruments but above all, he will have experience. We remind you that once every 5 years a complete maintenance is recommended for your mechanical watches, take advantage of this visit for a complete cleaning which will remove inaccessible impurities.
Your watchmaker's main instrument will be an ultrasonic bath. If you're dirt, a ride in that bin is probably your worst nightmare. Once the watch has been dismantled, the various components such as your case (empty) and your bracelet will be immersed in a solution which will be irradiated with ultrasound. Basically, these waves will “dissolve” the dirt.
This system will be much more efficient and more complete than home cleaning and we are aware that not everyone has an ultrasonic tank. This is why from time to time, professional cleaning is recommended.
Our advice for properly maintaining your watch
Now that your favorite wrist jewelry is cleaned, how to best preserve and maintain it ? You're in luck, we have all the tips for you.
Know your watch well and take care of it
Obviously, so that your watch lasts you as long as possible it must be used according to its range of use. Each watch has a specific use and very particular characteristics, which is why dozens of different types exist. We can cite: diving watches, chronographs, pilot's watches, rangefinders, etc.
If this is not already the case, find out what type of watch you wear, so you can show off in front of another amateur and, more importantly, know how to use it. A city watch will be for the city and will not like water or sport and a sports watch will not be suitable for diving either. You must therefore use your watch properly and not ask too much of it.
To start, your watch must be adjusted to the correct size. If your metal bracelet is too wide, your bracelet will become too “loose” and the risk of it breaking will increase considerably. Additionally, you have less chance of damaging it by keeping it close to you. Remember that the slightest shock can be fatal.
Take care of your movement
The death zone:
Certain actions, however harmless they may be, can seriously to damage your watch and your movement without even realizing it. The most deceitful of these is changing the time/date or lunar cycle, while the natural change is in progress.
In other words any setting of the time or date will probably be fatal if you do between 21 p.m. and 3 a.m. This time slot is called the Dead Zones. During this time zone, your watch is changing the date. On a mechanical watch you have to be careful and not touch anything at this time.
Wear your watches:
Counterintuitively, your mechanical watch is less damaged when running than when stationary, at least if it has been revised recently. Effectively oils dry out and congeal very quickly. In the space of a few weeks, effectiveness drops on average by 10%. If the watch remains stationary, the oils freeze and “stick” the parts together. It is for this reason that'it is better to rotate your watch and have it serviced approximately every 5 years. Even if it works like a charm, the parts undergo more friction and therefore wear.
Watch out for the crown:
This time it is more particularly about the crown only movement but everything is linked. Never wind your watch with just one finger. Pinch the crown between your index finger and thumb and turn gently so as not to veil it. When your watch is on your wrist, do not set the time or wind it, you risk once again veiling the crown.
A veiled crown has the consequence ofdamage the crown stem, the mechanism and compromise the waterproofness. In addition, a warped crown is systematically repaired and this will have a cost.
Storage and warehousing
How do I properly store and store my watch? Nothing's easier. Evening, if you plan to return your watch the next day, place it naturally on your bedside table, you will simply have to go back in the morning, whether it is manually wound, or not, depending on your power reserve.
If you plan not to wear your watch for several days or weeks, the favorite burrows of your timepieces will be a dry place protected from light, i.e. the original box, a marmot or a case. However, wind your watches frequently so as not to freeze the oils!
As always, there is a alternative more convenient for your automatic, " range simulators » which automatically wind your watches. The advantage is that your watch is constantly on time, fully wound, and the oils do not have time to solidify.
A range simulator or watch winder is a small machine that allows you to store your watch and imitate wrist movements. The Rolls for storing your mechanical watches.
Have your watch serviced by a watchmaker
Indeed, even if your watch works perfectly, the components inside may suffer wear and tear over time but also damage due to loss of oil effectiveness. The older the oils are, the stickier they are. Your vintage watch found in a garage sale will therefore systematically have needs a good overhaul.
So get closer to either your watchmaking house who will have all the parts necessary for the overhaul, or go through your watchmaker, at your convenience !
Pay attention to your bracelet
On your watch, the bracelet is also very important and it is essential to take care of it if you want it to last over time. Not all bracelets do well with water.
Mediafixer Rubber bracelets and metal bracelets for example are created and designed to resist water without worries. So you can swim and do your water activities or even sports with complete peace of mind.
Add a bracelet as for it will be recommended for use in town, itwill hardly appreciate being soaked, even for a quick shower or hand wash. This is a bracelet that deserves more attention.
Depending on the bracelet fitted to your watch, do not hesitate to ask the brand for advice on using it and nowadays many bracelets are quickly interchangeable so don't panic, you can easily go from leather to leather. a tropic to enjoy a swim with your favorite diving watch.
Don't play watchmaker's apprentice
Most importantly for the end, never disassemble or open your watch on your own. The components are extremely fragile and the slightest dust can harm its operation. Don't try anything crazy. It is not uncommon to ruin your first “handmade” opened watches, so unless your watch is destined for the trash, it is better to go to a professional and do not regret bad handling.
Your watch need regular maintenance in order to keep in Olympic shape and serve you as best as possible. To do this, clean it and take care of it every day, she will know how to give it back to you. Take out your brushes and rags it's time for monthly cleaning.
And finally for more expensive watches, do not hesitate to turn directly to the watchmaking companies which often offer this type of service.
OUR MARIE SUPER-LUMINOVA COLLECTION
- Photo Seiko with cleaning kit: MR Watch
- Photo Ultrasound tray: Censis
- Photo Bracelets : DWYT-Watch
- Photo Watch in spare parts: Le Pole Horloger
- Photo Bracelets Rolex : The Watch Buyers Group